The popular image of safari, especially in the West, is inseparable from Kenya. At the turn of the last century, talented writers like Ernest Hemingway and Karen Blixen brought to life the vivid imagery and uplifting life experience that is a safari in Kenya. It is at this time that major celebrities of the day such as Teddy Roosevelt and Prince Edward traveled to Kenya on safari. And so the safari gained a certain snobbish appeal. Celebrities went because it was expected of them. And those who were on their way because the safari was part of the certification they needed on the way. If you want a glimpse into the mood and character of the players at the time, read Hemingway’s intriguing short story “The Brief Happy Life of Francis Macomber.”
Nowadays, however, a safari in Kenya is accessible to many more people. Despite competition from other destinations, Kenya remains at the heart of the African safari experience. The magnificence and diversity of wildlife and scenery is second to none. You are guaranteed to check off the entire list of the big five: lion, buffalo, leopard, rhino, and elephant. Other lesser known but essential and collegiate members of the savannah ecosystem also abound. The kaleidoscope of landscape unfurls the magnificent Rift Valley, central highlands, savannah grasslands, snow-capped Mount Kenya, and the desolate lunar landscape of the north. Perhaps that is why experts advise all those faithful lovers of wildlife and nature that at least once in their life they should participate in a safari in Kenya.
Kenya has more than 50 national parks and game reserves where wildlife is protected. But as you already suspect, on an average safari you can’t expect to cover them all. So it’s good that you get good value by visiting just a few of them. This is unless of course you have plenty of time and can afford to go off the beaten path. The most popular and the ones to choose from for those with limited time and budget are: Maasai Mara, Amboseli, Lake Nakuru, Aberdares, Samburu and Tsavo. Best in the off the beaten track category for wildlife or back-to-nature activities are: Kakamega Forest, Marsabit, Meru, Mount Kenya, Mount Elgon, and Shimba Hills.
Maasai Mara is the big one. This is where you should go even when two nights is all you can spend. This is mainly where all those wildlife videos in Kenya are shot. The Mara, as the Maasai Mara Game Reserve is commonly known, is part of the ecosystem that includes Tanzania’s equally famous Serengeti. Covering 320 square kilometers, it is nestled in the southwestern corner of the country. The Mara offers wildlife in such variety and abundance that it is hard to believe. On a two-night visit, I saw lions, rhinos, hippos, crocodiles, giraffes, wildebeests, zebras, buffalo, warthogs, hyenas, jackals, wild dogs, buffalo, leopards, nine types of antelope, and elephants. Birds also abound: secretary birds, cranes, storks, vultures and ostriches.
It is in Mara that perhaps the most spectacular event in the natural world takes place. I am referring to the annual migration of millions of wildebeest and zebra from the Serengeti in search of water and grazing. The chronology of the phenomena is conditioned by the rains and occurs between June and August. The reverse trip is usually done in October. Migration or not, the Mara has a large number of resident animals and you are sure to have a good wildlife viewing experience whatever time of year you visit. If you have sufficient funds, consider taking a balloon ride over the reserve. This popular and thoroughly memorable ride usually begins before sunrise and includes a champagne breakfast. The Mara is 5 hours from Nairobi by road and 45 minutes by plane.
Amboseli National Park sits on the lower slopes of mighty Kilimanjaro, whose peak lies just across the border from Tanzania. It is quite an experience to see Kilimanjaro floating above the clouds in the early morning. As the photography buff can already imagine, the mountain provides a spectacular backdrop for animal photographs. Amboseli is famous for its huge herds of elephants. You will also see buffalo, black rhino, zebra, wildebeest and other simple animals. Lions and other cats can be seen, but they are less common here than in Mara. The park is 3 hours from Nairobi by road and can be reached via Namanga, the border post between Kenya and Tanzania.
Lake Nakuru’s claim to fame rests on its flamingos and the more than 400 species of birds found here. The lake itself is a soda lake on the floor of the Rift Valley. The sight of the sometimes millions of flamingos is quite spectacular. From a distance, the lake appears surrounded by pink. Lake Nakuru is also home to a sanctuary for the endangered black and white rhino. Lions, Rothschild’s giraffes, buffalo and baboons are all residents here. The park is the most accessible of the larger parks in Kenya and is only two hours from Nairobi by road.
The same distance from Nairobi as Lake Nakuru is the Aberdares National Park. The park has a diverse topography that includes waterfalls, rainforests and the rivers that supply water to millions of Nairobi’s residents. The flora and fauna are unique and are not found anywhere else in the country except Mount Kenya. Leopard, elephant, rhino and the rare bongo can be found here. But dense vegetation and inclement weather make spotting animals difficult. However, you are guaranteed to see some animals, especially elephants and buffalo, at the illuminated waterholes of the two famous treetop hotels, The Ark and Treetops.
Those who have studied the history of the British royal family will remember that it was at Treetops in 1952 that the then-Princess Elizabeth was staying for her honeymoon when her father, King George VI, died. She descended from the Treetops to take on the grueling role of presiding over the remote domains and colonies of the empire. If you stay in Treetops, you will surely meet some of her fans.
Although not as famous as Mara, Samburu National Park is another wildlife refuge. Here you will see lions, elephants, cheetahs and the elusive leopard. Some animals are unique to this northern park: Grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, kudu and gerenuk. You will find the semi-arid landscape quite dramatic. On your trip to Samburu, you may also want to visit the nearby Shaba and Buffalo Springs Game Reserves. Also, this is the place to go on a camel safari. Samburu is three hours from Nairobi by road.
Tsavo is so big, all 20,000 square kilometres, that it is managed as two units: Tsavo West and Tsavo East. This is the closest park to Mombasa on the coast. The park is three and a half hours from Nairobi by road. You will find large herds of elephants, especially in Tsavo East. Tsavo West is full of crocodiles, vervet monkeys, antelopes, baboons, giraffes and hippos. It is in Tsavo that poachers were most successful in their bloody racket and this saw a dramatic drop in the elephant population. The good guys have taken the lead in recent years and the numbers are picking up.
But the Kenyan authorities are still very suspicious of the future of the elephant in Tsavo. The country is very active in seeking a permanent ban on the international trade in ivory. I wish at this point to declare to everyone that I am a great admirer of the African elephant. I think this is the real king of the jungle and not that overrated pretender, the lion. You may remember from the movie “The Man Eaters of Tsavo” how the cowardly lions disrupted the construction of the railway in the Tsavo area by feeding on the labor. Would true royalty be involved in such a disgraceful affair?
Kenya is a year-round safari destination. The rains come around April-May and November-December. However, this does not greatly affect the ability of travelers to get around. This is except for the heavily forested Aberdares. In the rainy season the roads in Aberdares are extremely slippery and the park is sometimes closed. Generally, the best time to go on safari is during the drier months, when the grass is short and it is much easier to spot animals. But in areas like Mara, animals are so abundant that you will see plenty of them no matter what the season. The peak tourist season falls around January to February and July to August. April to June is the low season and hostel accommodation prices can be up to 40% lower than in high season.
Accommodation on a safari varies from basic camps to luxury lodges and tent camps. Up in the bush, you’ll be pleasantly surprised that all the trappings of 5-star accommodations are available. But if you want to have a rough time, you will find campsites in almost all game reserves and national parks. Information on Kenyan hotel, lodge and resort accommodation options is available online.
Generally, it is recommended to take a guided Kenya safari tour package that includes transportation, park fees, and accommodation. The reason for this is that tour guides are often knowledgeable about the animals, where to find them and how to get there, and have other useful local knowledge. Take a look at some offers of various durations and budgets.
But if you have plenty of time and need more freedom to get around, rent a car in Nairobi or Mombasa. For car rental in Kenya, you can choose between self-drive and chauffeur-driven vehicles. On safari, wear light cotton and linen garments. Warmer clothing is needed for the evenings and for your early morning game drive. Some waterproof clothing is recommended between March and June and October and December.
You should bring a hundred pairs of sunglasses. The glow you experience in bright tropical light is a new and uncomfortable experience for most. It’s also a good idea to bring a pair of binoculars. They are very useful for spotting animals and will earn you the envy of your less informed traveling companions.
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